The short answer: tarping a roof temporarily means covering the damaged area with a heavy-duty tarp that runs well past the damage and over the ridge, then fastening its edges through wood boards so wind and rain can’t get underneath. It’s a stopgap, not a repair—and on a wet, steep, or storm-damaged roof, it’s usually a job for a professional.
Picture a typical South Sound windstorm: by morning there’s a Douglas fir limb on the lawn, a patch of shingles missing above the bedroom, and rain in the forecast every day this week. That’s when most homeowners start searching for temporary roof tarping, and it’s the right instinct. Getting that opening covered fast matters.
We’ve been roofing homes around Lacey, Olympia, and Tumwater since 1979, and we’ve installed more emergency tarps than we could count. We’ve also seen tarps peel back in the next gust and nails driven through good shingles. This guide shows how a temporary tarp is done right, and gives you an honest way to decide whether you should be the one doing it.
Quick Answer: How Do You Tarp a Roof Temporarily?
To tarp a roof temporarily, use a heavy-duty, UV-resistant tarp large enough to extend at least three feet past the damage on every side and over the ridge. Wrap the edges around 2×4 boards and fasten the boards through to the roof deck so wind can’t get underneath. On a wet, steep, or damaged roof, call a professional.
Before You Climb: Why Temporary Roof Tarping Is Usually a Pro’s Job
A tarp protects your home. Nothing about it is worth a fall. Falls are the leading cause of death in construction work, and that’s why trained crews are required to use fall protection any time they’re six feet or more off the ground. A homeowner on a ladder after a storm usually has none of that, on the most dangerous version of the roof: wet, damaged, and covered in debris.
Western Washington adds its own hazards. Olympia averages more than 8 inches of precipitation in November across roughly 20 wet days, based on NOAA climate normals, so there’s rarely a dry window to work in. Moss makes wet shingles even slicker, and conifer limbs can crack decking or rafters you can’t see from above.
DIY or Call a Pro? A Quick Way to Decide
| Situation | Reasonable to DIY? | Call a Professional |
| Single-story home, low-pitch roof, small damaged area | Possibly, if dry and you have a helper | If you have any doubt about footing |
| Two-story home or steep pitch | No | Yes |
| Roof is wet, mossy, or still raining | No | Yes—wait or call |
| Tree or large limb still on the roof | No | Yes, and stay out of the rooms below |
| Soft or sagging areas visible from the attic | No | Yes—possible structural damage |
| Tile, slate, or metal roofing | No | Yes—standard fastening can damage these |
| Damage near a chimney, flue, or plumbing vent | No | Yes—these can’t simply be covered over |
If you land in the right-hand column, stay inside, put buckets under the drips, move valuables, and call for help. Our guide to handling a roof leak during heavy rain covers the first few hours.
Choosing the Right Tarp
What Type of Tarp Is Best for a Roof?
In our experience, the best choice is a heavy-duty, UV-treated polyethylene tarp with reinforced edges and grommets, ideally in the 10–12 mil range. Thin camping or firewood tarps tend to shred within a few windy days. The temporary roofs FEMA and the Army Corps of Engineers install after disasters use reinforced plastic sheeting held down with strips of wood nailed or screwed to the roof, which is the standard for a reason.
What Size Tarp Do I Need for a Roof?
Most people buy one that’s too small. To size it:
- Width: the damaged area’s width plus at least three feet on each side.
- Length: from about three feet below the damage up to the ridge, plus three to four feet to drape over the ridge.
- Round up. Leave extra for wrapping the edges around boards, and remember tarps often run smaller than their labeled size.
Hypothetical example: damage 4 feet wide, with its bottom edge 10 feet below the ridge, needs about 10 feet of width and 19 feet of length. A 12×20 tarp is the right buy. One large tarp beats two overlapped ones, since every seam is a place water and wind can find.
How to Tarp a Roof Temporarily: Step by Step
These are the steps our crews follow. If you’re doing this yourself, only proceed on a dry, single-story, low-pitch roof with a helper on the ground.
- Inspect from the ground and the attic. Look for missing shingles and exposed decking outside, then use a flashlight in the attic to find where water is coming in and check for cracked rafters or soft decking.
- Document everything. Photograph the damage, inside and out, before anything is moved or covered.
- Clear loose debris. Remove small branches and loose shingle pieces so the tarp lies flat, and clear any clogged gutters so shed water has somewhere to go. Leave large limbs to professionals.
- Prepare the top edge on the ground. Roll it around a 2×4 a couple of times and fasten through the tarp into the board.
- Run the tarp over the ridge and anchor it. Put the anchored board on the opposite slope so water runs over the tarp, never into its top edge, and fasten the board to the roof deck.
- Pull it taut and secure the rest. Smooth out wrinkles, wrap the sides and bottom around more boards, and fasten every foot or so. Don’t leave a board lying level across the slope where it can dam water.
- Work around chimneys, flues, and vents. Never seal over them; they need to keep venting. A professional cuts the tarp around each one and seals the edges.
- Check it from the ground. Confirm full coverage with no loose corners, and take “after” photos.
How to Secure a Tarp on a Roof So It Stays Put
| Method | Holds Up in PNW Wind? | Best For |
| Edges wrapped around boards, boards fastened to the deck | Yes—the most secure option | Almost every asphalt shingle roof |
| Nails or screws straight through the tarp | Poor—tears out at the holes | Not recommended |
| Sandbags or weights | Poor—they slide on wet slopes | A few hours at most |
| Adhesive (peel-and-stick) roof tarp | Fair—needs a clean, dry surface | Small areas in dry conditions |
| Ropes tied to fixed anchors | Fair—needs solid tie-off points | Short-term backup |
Should You Nail a Tarp to the Roof?
Not directly. Nails through a tarp create stress points that tear out in the first strong gust. Wrap the edges around boards and fasten the boards to the roof deck, the same method used in the federal Operation Blue Roof program. A good roofer places those fasteners where shingles will be replaced during the permanent roof repair.
How Do You Tarp a Roof Without Nails?
Sandbags, ropes tied to solid anchors, or a peel-and-stick roof tarp can work briefly, but all are weaker than boards and fasteners. Some roofs need a no-nail approach: the Army Corps of Engineers doesn’t install standard blue roofs on tile, slate, and some metal roofs because nailing through furring strips on those surfaces could cause more harm. Those roofs need a professional.
How Do You Keep a Tarp From Blowing Off a Roof?
Drape it over the ridge so there’s no exposed top edge, anchor every edge with boards, pull the fabric taut so it can’t balloon, and add extra fasteners at the corners. Then check it from the ground after every storm.
Insurance, and How Long a Tarp Can Stay Up
Most policies expect you to prevent further damage after a storm, and a tarp is usually the first step. Checkbook’s Puget Sound guide notes that most policies cover reasonable costs of emergency clean-up and temporary repairs. Photograph the damage first, keep every receipt, and hold off on permanent repairs until your insurer has seen the damage.
Tarps should stay up as briefly as possible. Operation Blue Roof’s temporary roofs are designed to last 30 days. On a South Sound roof, that window tends to look like this:
Stage 1 (The first two weeks): The tarp is doing its job. Check it after every storm and get permanent repairs on the calendar.
Stage 2 (Weeks three and four): Wind and UV wear start to show. Fastener holes stretch, edges fray, and leaks appear as slow staining rather than drips.
Stage 3 (Beyond a month): Water trapped underneath has nowhere to dry, and a targeted repair can grow into a larger replacement conversation.
A Tarp Buys You Time—Spend It Wisely
A good tarp stops the next storm from turning a contained problem into a soaked attic, and gives you room to make calm decisions. But it’s still plastic and a few boards holding back a Western Washington winter. Get the opening covered safely, document everything, and schedule a professional inspection before the tarp’s useful life runs out. If the storm has you rethinking your roof altogether, read up on which roofing material holds up best in our climate.
About Lacey Roofing
Lacey Roofing has been serving local homeowners and business owners since 1979. As a family-owned, locally operated company, we take pride in doing things right the first time—every time. Whether you need a roof inspection, moss treatment, gutter service, or a full replacement, our team brings the knowledge, punctuality, and genuine care that our neighbors in this community deserve—including 24/7 emergency response when a storm won’t wait. Roofing services you can rely on. Our reputation is watertight. Your roof done right, guaranteed. Reach out today—we’d love to help.s the knowledge, punctuality, and genuine care that our neighbors in this community deserve. Roofing services you can rely on. Our reputation is watertight. Your roof done right, guaranteed. Reach out today—we’d love to help.
